Jottings from Lancaster - Wholemeal Drop Scones

I haven't talked at all about our visit to the River Cottage Canteen in Axminster but I need to here as I have been making wholemeal drop scones - actually spelt drop scones - which was exactly what I ordered the morning we walked into River Cottage Canteen for the first time.

We were on holiday in Devon in October and I was half aware that there was a River Cottage thing at Axminster. I expected some out of the way little fancy restaurant instead of this big, bold frontage right in the middle of the tiny town. We had parked in Tesco and you could conveniently walk from there into the town through a rather picturesque little ginnel right on to the main street. John went off to the bookshop (Archway Books - highly recommended) and I popped my head round the door and decided immediately that we would have to go there for coffee. 


So when John eventually emerged from the bookshop with some interesting acquisitions I dragged him off. Inside it was a lovely deli and a somewhat rustic cafe with wooden tables and trendily unmatched wooden chairs. It was almost empty, it being Monday morning. The coffee menu looked amazing. They did rather nice breakfasts but having resolved not to eat anything at all, all that strong will crumbled under the thought of spelt drop scones with honey. John had toast and we ordered 2 coffees. And then we waited. It was a nice enough place to sit and wait. But when the coffees came and still no sign of the food we began to get a tad restless. Of course, being English, we sat for far longer than anyone in their right minds would. And then we gave up - we just went to the till and offered to pay for the coffees but explained that the food hadn't arrived. The girl was really nice about it and offered to go off and get the food for us and bring us another coffee each, but by then we needed to get on as we had planned a day's geocaching on Golden Cap (the highest point on the south coast).


But they were so nice - she was really kind and apologetic and we didn't even end up paying for the coffees. And by then the spell of the spelt was wearing off and I was being seduced by the deli pies. So we turned to the counter and from their amazing selection bought a ham hock and pea pie, along with a chicken and leek pie. And then a chocolate tart and a pear and almond tart. The former were for tea back at the cottage where we were staying and the yummy sweet tarts to eat with our picnic lunch on Golden Cap. And they were good - I mean REALLY good. Scrumptious pastry and tasty fillings. I couldn't begin to describe the chocolate tart it was just so... 


Anyway, the guy serving us on the deli counter was really kind and wrapped up everything well so that it wouldn't crumble in the back of the car or my backpack on our walk. He had heard of geocaching, but never done it so it was fun to talk to him. So surprisingly, our first encounter with River Cottage was very good but somehow the longing for the spelt drop scone never quite left me.

Drop scones cooking on top of the wood burning stove

River Cottage Canteen and Deli was bristling with books by Hugh, including his new veggie one. You could buy them there signed, but in the end I decided against. Like Heather, the thought of another almost unused cookery book on the shelves was an extravagance too far. At that time I knew nothing about HFW except that he lived at River Cottage somewhere in the West Country and he grew his own veggies. I had seen him on enough TV trailers to know what he looked like but that was the sum total of my knowledge. Still, even knowing so little, it was exciting to be in Axminster. But then a few days later, whiling away a little time in Honiton while John was sampling some of the best 2nd hand bookshops for miles around I noticed that W H Smith had an offer on - all TV cookery books were £9.99 and if you bought 2, the second was £5. Just because, for no reason at all really, I decided to buy the River Cottage Everyday book as I thought it looked really nice. And as we were on holiday and looking for little holiday presents, I bought a second one for £5 for Heather. After all, I had only spent £14.99 and had 2 books which I might have paid £25 each for. And if Heather wasn't bothered, at least we hadn't spent much. But in fact I LOVED the book. I loved the recipes, I loved the pictures and little drawings and I loved the foreword. 


The nice man at the deli counter told us to return for a meal in the evening, but we decided then and there that instead we would go for lunch. What happened when we did that is a blog for another day. Meanwhile the spelt drop scones were calling so here they are.

Ready to eat!

The recipe is really for wholemeal drop scones but I thought it would work just as well with spelt flour - as indeed it did... I even put honey on them. 

Jottage from Cambridge - Spelt

What is this obsession with spelt? This strange ingredient has
suddenly appeared on supermarket shelves, presumably in response to
all the food writers who seem to adore what Wikipedia introduces as a
‘hexaploid species of wheat’. According to the same source you’ve been
able to buy spelt from the supermarket for nearly five years now,
although products made from the stuff can only really be bought from
health food shops. I couldn’t wait to try Tristan on the Spelt and
Apple Stars (note that organic baby biscuits are horribly expensive,
even more so when you consider that half the biscuit will end up as a
crumb on your nicely hoovered floor) in the Baby & Toddler Cookbook
and, although my mother was sure that any old flour would do really, I
determined (this time) to follow Hugh’s recipe to the letter. Living
within walking distance of an Asda, Sainsbury’s and 24 Hour Tesco I
thought it would be piece of cake finding what Hugh specified as
‘unrefined spelt flour’. My quest was unsuccessful however, and
although I did manage to find spelt flour at all three supermarkets,
the place to buy ‘unrefined’ spelt flour remained something of a
mystery. Anyway I didn’t need to look any further than Arjuna on
Cambridge’s Mill Road.


Arjuna is the kind of store that I used to run a mile from, assuming
that they only stocked muesli, incredibly expensive organic skincare
products and everything either gluten, wheat or taste free. However on
the day I decided to make the short walk from my house down Mill Road
to Arjuna (note that my previous pram wouldn’t actually fit through
the door very easily so the trip was only really possible when I had
invested in a lightweight buggy) I was in for a huge treat. I spent at
least twenty minutes in there, eyeing up the different kinds of flour,
chocolates, and lovely baby foods (I don’t especially like muesli so
their display was wasted a bit on me). Most things were much cheaper
than in the supermarket too – this was clearly the place to buy herbs
and spices, as well as porridge oats and exotic juices. Of course I
found my wholemeal spelt flour too and, after I had been to buy a
star-shaped cookie cutter (I told you I was following Hugh’s recipe
diligently this time), I rushed home to make the cookies. Tristan
loved them, and I decided to take them to his swimming lesson so he
could share them with his baby friends. They naturally gobbled them
all up so I had to make another batch. Thankfully though I now have
enough unrefined spelt flour to last until he’s old enough to eat and
enjoy custard creams.

Jottage from Lancaster - rapeseed oil

When you get home with HDW's weighty tome River Cottage Everyday the first thing you encounter, apart from the lively pictures and somewhat quirky drawings, is a reference to rapeseed oil on almost every page. As a cook who tends to slosh in Tesco generic 'vegetable oil' which may well be refined engine oil as far as I know, and who thinks that olive oil is the height of gastronomic chic, this needed a little searching out at our local Booth's supermarket.


My well-used bottle of rapeseed oil...

I was actually quite excited about going off to buy this very exotic ingredient and rather hoped that the good people of Carnforth may well be deeply impressed - but of course no one noticed - and why indeed would they?

Rape flowers

Rapeseed oil is apparently very good for you - even more so than olive oil. It's deeply yellow, being derived from those unbelievable fields of rape that scatter the English countryside in early summer. Just as an aside, the word 'rape' derives from the Latin word 'rapum' meaning turnip, but the Americans, with their characteristic prudishness, call it canola oil.


So I return home clutching my bottle of bright yellow oil as happy as I might be if I had a fancy bottle of wine. It's now about 6 weeks since that day but every time I slosh some into the pan I love to see its buttercup yellow colour, I love the way it colours everything with a pale wash of saffron and into the bargain it's supposed to be good for me. Even though the bottle was nearly 4 quid I reckon that's a bargain!




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